• Arduino

    Learn about Arduino and make various interesting projects using Arduino...

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  • 555 IC

    Learn about 555 IC and make various interesting projects using 555 IC...

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  • Basic Electronics

    Learn about Basic Electronics and various electronic components and their working...

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Laser Ray Effect using 555

This circuit produces a weird "Laser Ray" sound and flashes a  LED at approx 5Hz.

 COMPONENTS USED:

1.one 555 IC
2.one 100nF Ceramic Capacitor
3.one 10uF Electrolytic Capacitor
4.one 220K resistance
5.one 470ohm resistance
6.one LED
7.one 8ohm Speaker
8.one 6-12v supply



Delayed Start Circuit using 555 IC

This circuit does not turn on for XX seconds after power is applied. Adjustable from 1 second to 2 minutes.The delay can be adjusted by changing the resistance between pin 6 and ground.
Either you can use a 1M Variable Resistor or use different resistances to get different delays in turning on the circuit. Just Connect a LED to pin 3 of 555 along with a resistor to delay the start of LED.

Resistances Between pin 6 and Ground and their Respective Delays :

1K-     1s
100k-  10s
220k-  25s
250k-  27s
500k-  56s
1M-   2min


COMPONENTS USED :

1.one 555 IC.
2.one 100uF Electrolytic Capacitor.
3.one 1M Variable resistor or different Resistances (1K,100K,250K etc)
4.one LED.
5.one 470ohm/220ohm resistance.
6.one 9-12V Power Supply.




Toggle LED on off using 555

This circuit will toggle the output each time the switch is pressed. The action cannot be repeated until the 10u charges or discharges via the 100k. In this Project we will connect an LED to the pin 3 of 555,when the button will be pressed the LED will toggle on off.

COMPONENTS REQUIRED :

1.one 100k Resistor
2.two 10k Resistor
3.one 555 IC
4.one 10uF Electrolytic capacitor
5.one push button
6.one 470ohm/220ohm resistor
7.one LED
8.one 9-12V supply

STEPS  :

1.Place 555 IC on BreadBoard
2.Connect pin 2 to pin 6.
3.Connect pin 4 to pin 8.
4.Connect pin 1 to ground.
5.Connect pin 8 to VCC.
6.connect a 10K resistor between pin 2 and ground.
7.Connect another 10k resistor between pin 6 and VCC.
8.Connect 100K resistor between pin 3 and longer leg of Capacitor.
9.Connect shorter leg of Capacitor to ground.
10.Connect an LED to pin 3 with a 470ohm/220ohm resistor in series.
11.Connect the push button between pin 6 and positive terminal of Capacitor.
12.Connect power supply




LED Fading/Blinking using 555 IC

This circuit makes a LED fade on and off.  first charges a 100u and the transistor amplifies the current entering the 100u and delivers 100 times this value to the LED via the collector-emitter pins. The circuit needs 9v for operation since pin 2 of the 555 detects 2/3Vcc before changing the state of the output so we only have a maximum of 5.5v via a 470R/220R resistor to illuminate the LED.

 

COMPONENTS REQUIRED:

1. one 470ohm / 220ohm  resistor 
2. one 33k resistor
3. one LED ( I used Blue)
4. one 100uf Capacitor
5. one 555 Timer
6. one Generic NPN Transistor (2222A)
7. one 9-12V Supply

STEPS :

1. Place 555 Timer
2. Connect Pin 1 To Ground
3. Connect Pin 2  to Base of NPN
4. Connect 33K resistor between Pin 3 and base of NPN
5. Connect Pin 4 to Pin 8
6. Connect Pin 6  to Pin 2
7. Connect Pin 8  to Positive voltage
8. Connect Emitter of NPN to 470ohm resistor to longer leg of LED,Connect shorter leg to ground
9. Connect Base of NPN to + side of cap, then ground - side
10. Connect Collector of NPN to + voltage


Resistance b/w pin3 of 555 and base of NPN(2222A)

30K/33K - Fadein,Fade out
220ohm - Fast blink
1K - Blink
470ohm - Slow blink
100K - Faded start



(NOTE :  Below i used a combination of resistors equal to 30K  to Fade in and Fade out a LED )



Programmable LED MATRIX [ARDUINO]


This led matrix can be programmed using arduino, various patterns can be made using functions and by specifying the LED's on the array.

components-

transistors- BC547
Resistances- 470 ohm and 1K ohm
Arduino Uno
hookup wires
breadboard

Circuit Schematic-



Sketch-

int x [4] = {13,12,11,4}; //Pins of x axis in numerical order
int y [4] = {10,7,8,2}; //Pins of y axis in numerical order
void setup ()
{
 for (int a=0; a<4; a++) { //Output pins
 pinMode(x[a], OUTPUT);
 }
  for (int b=0; b<4; b++) { //Output pins
 pinMode(y[b], OUTPUT);
 }
}
void flash (int x1,int y1) { //Function to flash leds
  x1-=1; //-1 because arrays starts with 0 so the 4 is 3 and 3 is 2...
  y1-=1;
  for (int c=0; c<4;c++) {
if(c!=x_){ //This will turn off every single x led except the led you wanna flash
  digitalWrite(x[c], LOW);
}
  }
  for (int d=0; d<4;d++) {
if(d!=y_){ //This will turn off every single y led except the led you wanna flash
digitalWrite(y[d], LOW);
}
  }
  digitalWrite(x[(x1)],HIGH); 
  delay(80);
  //Flashes the x led you want to
  digitalWrite(y[(y1)],HIGH);
  delay(80);
}

void loop () {

flash(1,1);
flash(1,2);
flash(1,3);
flash(1,4);
flash(2,1);
flash(2,2);
flash(2,3);
flash(2,4);
flash(3,1);
flash(3,2);
flash(3,3);
flash(3,4);
flash(4,1);
flash(4,2);
flash(4,3);
flash(4,4);

flash(1,1);
flash(2,1);
flash(3,1);
flash(4,1);
flash(1,2);
flash(2,2);
flash(3,2);
flash(4,2);
flash(1,3);
flash(2,3);
flash(3,3);
flash(4,3);
flash(1,4);
flash(2,4);
flash(3,4);
flash(4,4);


}

Programmable LED MATRIX [ARDUINO] video DEMO
























ARDUINO: Driving DC Motors using Transistors and PWM

DC motors, which you can find in numerous devices around your home, rotate continuously when a DC voltage is applied across them. Such motors are commonly found as the driving motors in radio control (RC) cars, and as the motors that make the discs spin in your DVD player. DC motors are great because they come in a huge array of sizes and are generally very cheap. By adjusting the voltage you apply to them, you can change their rotation speed. By reversing the direction of the voltage applied to them, you can change their direction of rotation as well. This is generally done using an H-bridge,Brushed DC motors,employ stationary magnets and a spinning coil. Electricity is transferred to the coil using “brushes,” hence the reason they are called brushed DC motors. Unlike 
brushless DC motors (such as stepper motors), brushed DC motors are cheap and have easier speed control. However, brushed DC motors do not last as long because the brushes can wear out over time. These motors work through an inductive force. When current passes through the spinning coil, it generates a magnetic field that is either attracted to or repelled by the stationary magnets depending on the polarity. By using the brushes to swap the polarity each half rotation, you can generate angular momentum. The exact same configuration can be used to create a generator if you manually turn the armature. This will generate a fluctuating magnetic field that will, in turn, generate current. This is 
how hydroelectric generators work—falling water turns the shaft, and a current is produced. This capability to create current in the opposite direction is why we will use a diode to ensure that the motor cannot send current back into your circuit when it is forcibly turned.

Handling High-Current Inductive Loads

DC motors generally require more current than the Arduino’s built-in power supply can provide, and they can create harmful voltage spikes due to their inductive nature. To address this issue, you first learn how to effectively isolate a DC motor from your Arduino, and then how to power it using a secondary supply. A transistor will allow the Arduino to switch the motor on and off safely, as well
as to control the speed using the pulse-width modulation (PWM).

Before you hook up your DC motor, it’s important to understand what all
these components are doing:



■Q1 is an NPN bipolar-junction transistor (BJT) used for switching the separate 9V supply to the motor. There are two types of BJTs, NPN and PNP, which refer to the different semiconductor “doping” techniques used to create the transistor.You can simplistically think of an NPN transistor as a voltage-controlled switch that allows you to inhibit or allow current flow.
■A 1kΩ resistor is used to separate the transistor’s base pin from the control
pin of the Arduino.
■U1 is the DC motor.
■C1 is for filtering noise caused by the motor.
■D1 is a diode used to protect the power supply from reverse voltage
caused by the motor acting like an inductor.



Controlling Motor Speed with PWM

//Simple Motor Speed Control Program
const int MOTOR=9; //Motor on Digital Pin 9
void setup()
{
pinMode (MOTOR, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()
{
for (int i=0; i<256; i++)
{
analogWrite(MOTOR, i);
delay(10);
}
delay(2000);
for (int i=255; i>=0; i--)
{
analogWrite(MOTOR, i);
delay(10);
}
delay(2000);
}

Transistor Tester using 555 IC

The 555 operates at 2Hz. Output pin 3 drives the circuit with a positive then zero voltage. The other end of the circuit is connected to a voltage divider with the mid-point at approx 4.5v.

This allows the red and green LEDs to alternately flash when no transistor is connected to the tester.

If a good transistor is connected, it will produce a short across the LED pair when the voltage is in one direction and only one LED will flash.

If the transistor is open, both LED’s will flash and if the transistor is shorted, neither LED will flash.

COMPONENTS USED  :

1.one 555 IC
2.two 1N4148 diode
3.one 33K resistor
4.four 220 Ohm resistance
5.one Red LED
6.one Green LED
7.one 10uF Electrolytic Capacitor
8.one 9-12v Supply




(NOTE - In pics below i have used a series of resistances to make 33K resistance )



Integrated Circuit chips

Figure below shows what is often referred to as an integrated circuit (IC). The circuit is actually etched onto a tiny wafer or “chip” of silicon, embedded in a black plastic body, which is properly referred to as the “package.” Tiny wires inside the package link the circuit with the two rows of pins on either side.

                                    

 
   



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 
          

Figure 4-2. An integrated circuit chip in Plastic Dual-Inline Pin package, abbreviated PDIP, or, more often, DIP.The pins are mounted at intervals of 1/10 inch in two rows spaced 3/10 inch apart. This format is known as a Plastic Dual Inline Package, abbreviated PDIP, or, more often, just DIP. The chip in the photograph has four pins in each row; others may have many more. The first thing you need to know, when shopping for chips, is that you’ll only be using the DIP package. Figure 4-3 shows a size comparison between a 14-pin DIP package and a 14-pin surface-mount package. Many surface-mount chips are even smaller than the one shown.Just about every chip has a part number printed on it. In Figure 4-2, the part number is KA555. In Figure 4-3, the DIP chip’s part number is M74HC00B1, and the surface-mount chip is a 74LVC07AD. You can ignore the second line of numbers and/or letters on each chip, as they are not part of the part number.

Notice in Figure 4-3 that even though the chips look quite different from each other, they both have “74” in their part numbers. This is because both of them are members of the “7400” family of logic chips, which originally had part numbers from 7400 and upward (7400, 7401, 7402, 7403, and so on). Often they are now referred to as “74xx” chips, where “xx” includes all the members of the family.  The DIP chip, at the rear, has pins spaced 1/10 inch apart, suitable for insertion in a breadboard or perforated board. It can be soldered without special tools. The small-outline integrated circuit (SOIC) surface-mount chip 
(foreground) has solder tabs spaced at 1/20 inch. Other surface-mount chips have pins spaced at 1/40 inch or even less (these dimensions are often expressed in millimeters).

 Surface-mount chips are designed primarily for automated assembly and are difficult to work with manually. In this photo, the yellow lines are 1 inch apart to give you an idea of the scale.Take a look at Figure 4-4, which shows how to interpret a typical part number in a 74xx family member. The initial letters identify the manufacturer (which you can ignore, as it really makes no difference for our purposes).
Skip the letters until you get to the “74.” After that, you find two more letters, which are important. The 74xx family has evolved through many generations, and the letter(s) inserted after the “74” tell you which generation you’re dealing with. Some generations have included:
•  74L
•  74LS
•  74C
•  74HC
•  74AHC
And there are more.


Sound , Electricity & Sound

Time to establish a clear idea of how sound is transformed into electricity and back into sound again.

Suppose someone bangs a gong with a stick. The flat metal face of the gong vibrates in and out, creating sound waves. A sound wave is a peak of higher air pressure, followed by a trough of lower air pressure.

The wavelength of the sound is the distance (usually ranging from meters to millimeters) between one peak of pressure and the next peak.
The frequency of the sound is the number of waves per second, usually ex- pressed as hertz.

Suppose we put a very sensitive little membrane of thin plastic in the path of the pressure waves. The plastic will flutter in response to the waves, like a leaf fluttering in the wind. Suppose we attach a tiny coil of very thin wire to the back of the membrane so that it moves with the membrane, and let’s posi- tion a stationary magnet inside the coil of wire. This configuration is like a tiny, ultra-sensitive loudspeaker, except that instead of electricity producing sound, it is configured so that sound produces electricity. Sound pressure waves make the membrane move to and fro along the axis of the magnet, and the magnetic field creates a fluctuating voltage in the wire.

This is known as a moving-coil microphone. There are other ways to build a microphone, but this is the configuration that is easiest to understand. Of course, the voltage that it generates is very small, but we can amplify it using a transistor, or a series of transistors. Then we can feed the output through the coil around the neck of a loudspeaker, and the loudspeaker will recreate the pressure waves in the air.


Somewhere along the way, we may want to record the sound and then replay it. But the principle remains the same. The hard part is designing the microphone, the amplifier, and the loudspeaker so that they reproduce the waveforms accurately at each step. It’s a significant challenge, which is why accurate sound reproduction can be elusive.

Time now to think about what happens inside the wire when it generates a magnetic field. Obviously, some of the power in the wire is being transformed into magnetic force. But just what exactly is going on?














origin of LoudSpeakers

Loudspeakers utilize the fact that if you run a varying electrical current through a coil situated in a magnetic field, the coil will move in response to the current. This idea was introduced in 1874 by Ernst Siemens, a prolific German inventor. (He also built the world’s first electrically powered elevator in 1880.) Today, Siemens AG is one of the largest electronics companies in the world.

When Alexander Graham Bell patented the telephone in 1876, he used Siemen’s concept to create audible frequencies in the earpiece. From that point on, sound-reproduction devices gradually increased in quality and power, until Chester Rice and Edward Kellogg at General Electric published a paper in 1925 establishing basic principles that are still used in loudspeaker design today.

 As sound amplifiers became more powerful, speaker efficiency became less important compared with quality reproduction and low manufacturing costs. Today’s loudspeakers convert only about 1% of electrical energy into acoustical energy.


XBEE Cheatsheet


    Source: www.tunnelsup.com

Atmega AT328P pin mapping


Arduino:Reading Digital Inputs with Pulldown Resistors

All digital inputs use a pullup or pulldown resistor to set the “default state” of the input pin. Imagine the circuit in Figure below without the 10kΩ resistor. In this scenario, the pin would obviously read a high value when the button is pressed.But, what happens when the button is not being pressed? In that scenario, the input pin you would be reading is essentially connected to nothing—the input pin is said to be “floating.” And because the pin is not physically connected to 0V or 5V, reading it could cause unexpected results as electrical noise on nearby pins causes its value to fluctuate between high and low. To remedy this, the pulldown resistor is installed as shown in Figure .

Now, consider what happens when the button is not pressed with the pulldown resistor in the circuit: The input pin will be connected through a 10kΩ resistor to ground. While the resistor will restrict the flow of current, there is still enough current flow to ensure that the input pin will read a low logic value. 10kΩ is a fairly common pulldown resistor value. Larger values are said to be weak pulldowns because it easier to overcome them, and smaller resistor values are said to be strong pulldowns because it is easier for more current to flow through them to ground. When the button is pressed, the input pin is directly connected to 5V through the button. 

Now, the current has two options:
■It can flow through a nearly zero resistance path to the 5V rail.
■It can flow through a high resistance path to the ground rail

Pulldown and pullup resistors are important because they ensure that the button does not create a short circuit between 5V and ground when pressed and that the input pin is never left in a floating state.

Sketch
simple LED control using push button

const int LED=9; //The LED is connected to pin 9
const int BUTTON=2; //The Button is connected to pin 2
void setup()
{
pinMode (LED, OUTPUT); //Set the LED pin as an output
pinMode (BUTTON, INPUT); //Set button as input
}
void loop()
{
if (digitalRead(BUTTON) == LOW)
{
digitalWrite(LED, LOW);
}
else
{
digitalWrite(LED, HIGH);
}
}

Arduino: Pulse-Width Modulation with analogWrite()

we can generate analog output values by using a trick called pulse-width modulation(PWM). Select pins on each Arduino can use the analogWrite()command to generate PWM signals that can emulate a pure analog signal when used with certain peripherals. These pins are marked with a ~ on the board.On the Arduino Uno, Pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11 are PWM pins. If you’re using an Uno, you can continue to use the circuit from Figure 2-1 to test out the analogWrite()command with your LED. Presumably, if you can decrease the voltage being dropped across the resistor, the LED should glow more dimly because less current will flow. That is what you will try to accomplish using PWM via the analogWrite()command. The analogWrite()command accepts two arguments: the pin to control and the value to write to it.The PWM output is an 8-bit value. In other words, you can write values from 0 to 28-1, or 0 to 255. Try using a similar forloop structure to the one you used previously to cycle through varying brightness values .

SKETCH:
const int LED=9; //define LED for Pin 9
void setup()
{
pinMode (LED, OUTPUT); //Set the LED pin as an output
}
void loop()
{
for (int i=0; i<256; i++)
{
analogWrite(LED, i);
delay(10);
}
for (int i=255; i>=0; i--)
{
analogWrite(LED, i);
delay(10);
}
}

What does the LED do when you run this code? You should observe the LED fading from off to on, then from on to off. Of course, because this is all in the main loop, this pattern repeats ad infinitum. Be sure to note a few differences in this forloop. In the first loop, i++is just shorthand code to represent i=i+1. Similarly, i--is functionally equivalent to i=i–1. The first for loop fades the
LED up, and the second loop fades it down.

Pulse Width Modulation

PWM control can be used in lots of circumstances to emulate pure analog control, but it cannot always be used when you actually need an analog signal. For instance, PWM is great for driving direct current (DC) motors at variable speeds, but it does not work well for driving speakers unless you supplement it with some external circuitry. Take a moment to examine how PWM actually works.


PWM works by modulating the duty cycle of a square wave (a signal that 
switches on and off). Duty cycle refers to the percentage of time that a square 
wave is high versus low. You are probably most familiar with square waves that 
have a duty cycle of 50%—they are high half of the time, and low half of the time.

The analogWrite()command sets the duty cycle of a square wave depending
on the value you pass to it:

■Writing a value of 0 with analogWrite()indicates a square wave with a
duty cycle of 0 percent (always low).
■Writing a 255 indicates a square wave with a duty cycle of 100 percent
(always high).
■Writing a 127 indicates a square wave with a duty cycle of 50 percent
(high half of the time, low half of the time).

The graphs in Figure show that for a signal with a duty cycle of 25 percent, it is high 25 percent of the time, and low 75 percent of the time. The frequency of this square wave, in the case of the Arduino, is about 490Hz. In other words, the signal varies between high (5V) and low (0V) about 490 times every second.So, if you are not actually changing the voltage being delivered to an LED, why do you see it get dimmer as you lower the duty cycle? It is really a result of your eyes playing a trick on you! If the LED is switching on and off every 1ms (which is the case with a duty cycle of 50 percent), it appears to be operating at approximately half brightness because it is blinking faster than your eyes can perceive. Therefore, your brain actually averages out the signal and tricks you into believing that the LED is operating at half brightness.











Arduino: Working with “Bouncy” Buttons

When was the last time you had to hold a button down to keep a light on?
Probably never. It makes more sense to be able to click the button once to turn it
on and to click the button again to turn it off. This way, you do not have to hold
the button down to keep the light on. Unfortunately, this is not quite as easy as
you might first guess. You cannot just look for the value of the switch to change
from low to high; you need to worry about a phenomenon called switch bouncing.
Buttons are mechanical devices that operate as a spring-damper system. In
other words, when you push a button down, the signal you read does not just
go from low to high, it bounces up and down between those two states for a
few milliseconds before it settles.


The button is physically pressed at the 25ms mark. You would expect the
button state to be immediately read as a high logic level as the graph on the left
shows. However, the button actually bounces up and down before settling, as
the graph on the right shows.

If you know that the switch is going to do this, it is relatively straightforward
to deal with it in software. Next, you write switch-debouncing software that
looks for a button state change, waits for the bouncing to finish, and then reads
the switch state again. This program logic can be expressed as follows:

1.  Store a previous button state and a current button state (initialized
to LOW).
2.  Read the current button state.
3.  If the current button state differs from the previous button state, wait 5ms
because the button must have changed state.
4.  After 5ms, reread the button state and use that as the current button state.
5.  If the previous button state was low, and the current button state is high,
toggle the LED state.
6.  Set the previous button state to the current button state.
7.  Return to step 2

Within the program flow (listed in the preceding steps) is a series of repeating steps that need to be applied to changing variable values. Because you’ll want to repeatedly debounce the switch value, it’s useful to define the steps for debouncing as a function that can be called each time. This function will accept the previous button state as an input and outputs the current debounced button
state. The following program accomplishes the preceding steps and switches the LED state every time the button is pressed.

Sketch:
const int LED=9; //The LED is connected to pin 9
const int BUTTON=2; //The Button is connected to pin 2
boolean lastButton = LOW; //Variable containing the previous
//button state
boolean currentButton = LOW; //Variable containing the current
//button state
boolean ledOn = false; //The present state of the LED (on/off)
void setup()
{
pinMode (LED, OUTPUT); //Set the LED pin as an output
pinMode (BUTTON, INPUT); //Set button as input (not required)
}
/*
* Debouncing Function
* Pass it the previous button state,
* and get back the current debounced button state.
*/
boolean debounce(boolean last)
{
boolean current = digitalRead(BUTTON); //Read the button state
if (last != current) //if it's different…
{
delay(5); //wait 5ms
current = digitalRead(BUTTON); //read it again
return current; //return the current value
}
void loop()
{
currentButton = debounce(lastButton); //read deboucned state
if (lastButton == LOW && currentButton == HIGH) //if it was pressed...
{
ledOn = !ledOn; //toggle the LED value
}
lastButton = currentButton; //reset button value
digitalWrite(LED, ledOn); //change the LED state
}

Making Traffic Lights using 555 IC

Here's a clever circuit using two 555's to produce a set of traffic lights for a model layout.  The red LED has an equal on-off period and when it is off, the first 555 delivers power to the second 555. This illuminates the Green LED and then the second 555 changes state to turn off the Green LED and turn on the Orange LED for a short period of time before the first 555 changes state to turn off the second 555 and turn on the red LED.
A supply voltage of 9v to 12v is needed because the second 555 receives a supply of about 2v less than rail.
This circuit also shows how to connect LEDs high and low to a 555 and also turn off the 555 by controlling the supply to pin 8. Connecting the LEDs high and low to pin 3 will not work and since pin 7 is in phase with pin 3, it can be used to advantage in this design.

Here is a further description of how the circuit works:

 Both 555's are wired as oscillators in astable mode and will oscillate ALL THE TIME when they are turned ON. But the second 555 is not turned on all the time! The first 555 turns on and the 100u is not charged. This makes output pin 3 HIGH and the red LED is not illuminated. However the output feeds the second 555 and it turns on.

  Output pin 3 of the second 555 turns on the green LED and the second 100u charges to 2/3 rail voltage and causes the 555 to change states. The green LED goes off and the orange LED turns on. The second 100u starts to discharge, but the first 100u is charging via a 100k and after the orange LED has been on for a short period of time, the first 555 changes state and pin 3 goes LOW.

This turns on the red LED and turns off the second 555.
The first 100u starts to discharge via the 100k and eventually it changes state to start the cycle again.

The secret of the timing is the long cycle-time of the first 555 due to the 100k and the short cycle due to the 47k on the second 555.

COMPONENTS USED :
1.Two 555 IC.
2.Two 100uF cap.
3.one 100K resistance.
4.one 47K resistance.
5.one 470ohm resistance.
6.Two 220ohm resistance.
7.one red LED.
8.one orange LED.
9.one green LED.
10.one 6-12V power Supply.


(NOTE - i didnt had a 47k resistances so i used a series of resistances to make 47k resistance, and i also used double LED's ,two green ,two red,two yellow. Just place 2nd LED in parallel with the LED in the circuit and you are done.!)





Uneven Clicks using 555 IC

This circuit produces two clicks then a short space before two more clicks etc. Changing the voltage on pin, 5 via the diode, adjusts the timing of the chip.
This circuit uses the 1N4148 diode to regulate the voltage on pin 5 of 555 IC to produce uneven click sound  effect.

COMPONENTS USED :
1.one 555 IC
2.one 1N4148 Diode
3.one 47K resistance
4.two 10uF Electrolytic capacitance
5.one 8ohm speaker
6.one 6-12V power supply


STEPS :
1.Place 555 IC on breadboard.
2.Connect pin 2 to pin 6.
3.Connect pin 4 to pin 8.
4.Connect pin 1 to ground.
5.Connect pin 8 toVCC.
6.Connect pin 2 with positive side of a 10uF cap,connect negative side to ground.
7.Connect a 47K resistance between pin 2 and pin 3.
8.Connect the 1N4148 diode between pin 5 and pin3.
9.Connect long leg of  another 10uf with pin3 .
10.Connect shorter leg of cap above with one terminal of speaker,connect another terminal of speaker to ground.
11.Turn on power supply and Enjoy..!



(NOTE - i didnt have a 47K resistance so i used a combination of resistances to make up 47K resistance )





Rail Road crossing Flashing LED using 555 IC

This circuit flashes two red LEDs for a model railway crossing.The circuit uses a 555 IC to flash the LED's alternatively to give effect of a rail-roard crossing lights.

COMPONENTS USED :

1.555 IC
2.two LED's (any color but recommended Red)
3.Two 470 ohm/ 220 ohm resistances
4.one 47K resistance
5.one 10uF Electrolytic Capacitance
6.one 6-12V supply


STEPS :

1.Place 555 IC on BreadBoard.
2.connect pin 2 to pin 6.
3.connect pin 4 to pin 8.
4.connect a 47K resistance between pin 2 and pin 3.
5.connect a 10uF cap between pin 2 and ground.
6.connect pin 1 to ground.
7.connect pin 8 to VCC.
8.connect a 470/220 ohm resistance between pin 3 and shorter leg of a LED,connect the longer led of that LED to VCC.
9.connect another 470/220 ohm resistance between pin 3 and longer led of 2nd LED , connect the shorter leg of that LED to ground.
10.Switch on Power supply and Enjoy.!


(NOTE : In pics below i have placed a series of resistances to make up 47K resistance,also instead of only 2 LED's  i used 4 . Just place  LED in parallel with LED's in your circuit and you are done.You can also place them in series but it will dim their intensity)